Two More Years!

Well, it's official! We have been re-assigned to Skopje for an additional two years and we are quite thrilled with our decision. Originally, we had not planned on attempting to stay due to our dissatisfaction with the high school our son attended last year. This year however, he is doing so well in the new high school, that we would like to keep him there until graduation.
Our bidding went very well, and our original strategy was successful. We had concentrated on posts with language training in an effort to return to the US for a year, allowing us to complete Collier's surgery prior to our next posting. We felt this was the best approach even though it meant 4 high schools in 4 years for Christopher. And it worked, we were offered positions in Baku, Azerbaijan, and Tunis, Tunisia, which would have been perfect. But the European Bureau representative threw a twist in by asking us if we wanted to stay in Skopje or move on, which got us thinking and took away some of our excitement about the new opportunities. We really do love everything about our life here in Skopje, so now that the school problem was resolved, it seemed silly to leave! So although we had already received a handshake offer on Baku, my husband informed the Management Officer and the DCM here that he would be interested in staying, only if they approved, and within a couple hours we had a handshake on Skopje! The Embassy was stunned that it all happened so quickly, and we took that as a sign that it was meant to be. So, we will remain in Macedonia and have to postpone Collier's surgery for a while longer, but we are completely happy with our "new" assignment!

Chestnuts

Well, it's that time of year again....time for "chestnuts roasting on an open fire...." Here in Skopje, chestnuts are available just about every 50 feet in the center of town, usually being "roasted" over a gas grill type contraption. Scruffy looking men bundled up for warmth heat them, turning carefully with silver tongs, and package them in paper cones for customers. I am deeply surprised at how popular they are, particularly due to the hideous smell!!! When I hear The Christmas Song being crooned by Bing Crosby (or one of the other many artists who have shared their version of the Nat King Cole classic), it seems so romantic and iconic. It loses a lot of it's charm when you actually smell the chestnuts roasting on the Skopje Plostad! I don't know if it's the heating source or the chestnuts themselves, but it's nasty!!! However, they must be a delicious treat, as folks line up to buy them and we watched two little boys fight over a paper cone full of them this past weekend--you would have thought it was jellybeans or chocolate in that cone! Maybe I should try some, maybe if I hold my nose...lol.

Stobi Photos

Our weekend trip allowed me the opportunity to replace some of the Stobi photos I lost when the hard drive crashed...hope you enjoy! The mosaics were uncovered this time!

Lake Dojran/Stobi

This past weekend we decided to get out of town and explore a bit of Macedonia. Of course, we did have an ulterior motive...cheddar cheese! A gentleman who works in the USAID office owns a guesthouse in Star Dojran, which is close to the Greek border, so we rented it for the weekend. It's a lovely villa perched high atop a hill overlooking the Lake Dojran with spectacular views from the two balconies. If not for the 5 kids in tow, it would have been a very relaxing place to spend the weekend...lol. Equipped with all the necessary amenities, i.e. Playstation, satellite tv, dvd's galore, swimming pool with jets, etc., the house offered us a nice place to stay within an hour's drive of Thessaloniki and the coveted cheddar cheese! The kids really enjoyed the villa, and even though it was a bit too chilly for swimming, they are far braver than I and jumped right in... a move I will surely regret letting them do when they are all home sick this week.

Saturday, we made the trip to Thess and stocked up on plenty of cheese and enjoyed a terrific meal at TGI Friday's...always a favorite. We had a really fun, goofy waiter who plied our kids with plenty of goodies...balloon animals, coloring books, crayons, puzzles, etc. They had a great time and everyone enjoyed a familiar favorite food. Not sure it was worth the outrageous cost, but it was a treat!

When we returned from Thess, we strolled along Lake Dojran and photographed the beach and it's scenery. It was an interesting place. You can visibly see how much the lake has disappeared over the years. Both the Greeks and the Macedonians pull from the lake, and it is taking a toll on the water levels. A while back there were numerous problems with the water, but everything is clean and safe now thankfully. It seems like a lovely place for hanging out on a hot summer day, as the beach is actually sand, not pebbles as in Ohrid. There are several little shops nearby for buying snacks and fresh produce and a couple nice looking hotels. Several Macedonian families were picnicking in the park like area near the beach, where there are some grills available for public use. Fisherman dotted the lake, though in much smaller numbers than what we saw in the morning hours. It was a very peaceful environment and we enjoyed it.

After another night of dvd's and playstation soccer, we woke up early and packed up our gear. Eager to return home with our bounty of cheese and watch NFL games..lol, we headed back towards Skopje, admiring the beautiful mountains and amazed at all the trucks and tractors overflowing with loads of grapes, presumably en route to one of the many vineyards for pressing. In the heart of wine country, we passed many such vehicles! We stopped for an hour in Stobi, the ancient Roman city for a guided tour of the artifacts and discoveries there. Chris and I have been before, but we thought it would be a good educational experience for the kids. They all seemed to enjoy learning about life in the Roman times and witnessing some of the marvelous structures that have been unearthed there. It was a terrific weekend getaway!

Odd encounter at the deli

Last week, I stopped quickly by Vero to pick up some groceries, like I do almost daily. This particular day there was no line for the deli counter, so I decided to pick up a few things. Usually, the section is crowded and with no number system, it can be very frustrating dealing with the rudeness of those who arrive after you, yet order before you...especially the macho men, who don't think it necessary to wait. With no risk of being aggravated, I asked the clerk for "plovna kilo of podravec" and was surprised by her reaction. I know my Macedonian is quite lacking, but I have never had trouble buying a half kilo of cheese before. She pointed at the cheese in the cooler and repeated Mlejko, Mlejko over and over again. I was confused. Of course the cheese is made with milk, aren't most of them? She seemed adamant that I be aware of this fact and seemed to not want to give me any! I asked in English if there was a problem with the cheese, had it spoiled? She said no and reluctantly sliced it for me. Given her odd reaction to the Podravec(Swiss-like cheese, great on Triscuits), I decided to forgo asking for the mozzarella! I left quite confused and wondering if maybe it had something to do with it being the month of Ramadan. Had she thought I was an Albanian Muslim? That didn't seem to make sense either since I don't remember Muslims avoiding dairy during Ramadan. A friend suggested maybe there is yet another Orthodox holiday fasting period going on, and that scenario is probably most likely. I recall Gordana discussing how she abstained from eggs, meat, and dairy prior to Easter and Christmas. Maybe there is another event/holiday on the horizon and she was trying to help me stay in the good graces! Religion is very important to the Macedonians and that was very evident at the deli that day.

Bidding

In my last post I wrote about how the school year starting was a bold reminder of the friends who have moved on and of how different life is without them. In the last couple of weeks, we lost several more. All these farewell receptions/dinners at the Ambassador's residence have left me seriously aware of my lack of dressy clothes! As many of you know, life in the foreign service is full of transitions. This is our third two-year tour, which basically means that every year, we have to begin thinking about the bidding process and where we will end up next. It seems like we are always in transition mode, and I think that helps us keep things in perspective, but also prevents us from putting down stronger roots. Since it is summer, we are indeed bidding again. It is both an exciting and stressful time!

For those of you unfamiliar with the process, it basically works like this:
1. The department provides a list of positions available for each speciality/position at each grade(promotion)level. Chris is required to bid on at least 6 jobs, and they must be in at least 3 different geographical areas--i.e. Europe, Western Hemphisphere, East Asia, Middle East, etc. He may add as many additional jobs to the bid list as he likes, but those original 6 must be in his particular position and at his current rank. Because we are currently serving at a hardship post, he is permitted to bid up one rank as well, qualifying for a higher level post.
2. I get to do what I love...researching countries we are interested in. Looking at schools, crime levels, housing issues, shopping opportunities, etc. to determine whether or not the post is adequate for our family's needs can be extremely fun for me. I enjoy learning about new places and I think people are foolish if they don't properly explore the options thoroughly. I don't ever want to end up somewhere with bugs as big as my foot or where I will have to get 5 kids to choke down anti-malarials everyday! We talk about what I have discovered and balance the kid's needs with what will help further Chris' career most effectively and come up with a list of preferences.
3. Once he submits his list, it is up to him to actively pursue the positions he is most interested in. After all, all those posts available have someone leaving and those people are also interested in the same places we are...so basically he has to sell himself to potential posts. He does this by relaying his experience, his abilities, and by providing references from current and previous bosses and co-workers. It definitely helps to know people who know people!!
4. Then, we wait, and this is the stressful part. A post will select Chris and the regional bureau of that post will give it's approval of their decision and assign him accordingly. Hopefully, Chris will be offered a handshake deal on a post sometime in October and we will have some idea where we will end up next year. Techically, handshakes cannot be issued prior to October, but we have noticed some on the bid reporting sheet already, probably officers coming out of Iraq who get special compensation by receiving early notification. We are just praying that the place we want most will still be available when the jobs get panneled!

This particular bidding cycle has been challenging for us, as we have a lot more details to consider this time. We have been focusing on language designated posts, meaning that Chris would have to learn another new language prior to starting his overseas assignment. That would allow us a year in the US to complete Collier's surgery and post-op follow ups and would be the ideal situation. However, that would mean Christopher would end up attending 4 high schools in 4 years, which is dreadful, though he swears he doesn't mind. Can you believe he will be off to college during our next posting???? That is dreadful!!!!! Plus, all of the other little things like should we pursue another hardship, and enjoy the extra money, or take a "dream" post, which will definitely strain the bank account instead of filling it? Ultimately, we are hoping for Budapest, which takes care of the language detail, is a step up in responsibility for my husband, has a FANTASTIC school, and is generally a beautiful place to live. We are certainly interested in many others, including nearby Belgrade, cold but cozy Vilnius, as well as neighboring Tallinn and Riga, and exotic Tunisia. In fact, this is probably the best bid list we've ever had with great options like Ljubljana, Baku, and Munich too. I am sure we will be happy wherever we get placed! I just hate waiting to find out!!

First Day of School!

I know that I say this every year, but it's so true....I love the fall. Now I know it's not exactly fall yet, but it's approaching! Although the air is still heavy with heat and the leaves won't change color for a while, the NFL preseason has begun, and the kids have returned to school!

This year all 4 kids will attend the same school and it is a big change for the older two. Chris was hesitant to switch schools, but I think he will prosper and feel much more comfortable at his new school, even with his "uncool" little sisters hanging around. Arianna was a bit disappointed to find out that she will have different teachers this year (as of last week, she was supposed to have the same ones as last year), but she is highly adaptable so it will be fine. Alina is excited to be in the same classroom with the same teacher again, though she wishes there were new girls in her class, as she is now the only one. Anastasia is back amongst her friends and making new ones fast and she seemed thrilled to be back.

I dropped them off this morning and I have to say it was quite bittersweet and a bit sad. Last year, the school was teeming with other Moms introducing themselves, reconnecting after the holidays, and chatting, but this year is was significantly quieter. Last year a large group of us meandered to the tennis club next door for coffee and conversation, this year no one did, though I did have the chance to catch up with a couple of friends in the playground and parking areas. It was a stark reminder that a large turnover has occurred. This summer, we lost some very dear people in our little school community, a rather huge chunk of PTO volunteers, who lunched together regularly and enjoyed each other's company.

I was so busy with work and traveling this summer that it didn't really sink in until this morning how different life would be without them! Of course there will be new parents to connect with and life will go on, but these ladies were special and they are already sorely missed. So, if you are reading this, and you all know who you are....please know that you are in our hearts, thoughts, and prayers and that we miss you! Now is the time to heed the advice I give the kids so frequently, yes, it's sad when a friend leaves us, but we can always keep in touch and making new friends can be very exciting, so chin up, be strong, and hang in there! Fall is the season of change, and I guess now is the time to embrace right? Cheers.

Glad to be back

Well, after two months of craziness, I'm back!! It has been a very interesting couple of months. May was disastrous....computers crashing, husband out of town, multiple cases of strep throat, pancake breakfast planning, ear infections...shall I continue??? Those of you who know me well, know what I am referring to and I thank you all for keeping me sane during that difficult time...lol.
June was somewhat better, just monumentally busy with the end of the school year, assuming the role of IWA Co-Chair, newsletter deadlines, working temporarily at the CLO office, etc. It was a whirlwind of a month and I am so glad it is over! It reminded me how much I love the CLO position, but also of how much I really don't need to work right now. I do enjoy being home with the kids and doing both is extremely challenging.
July started out hectic with the awesome responsibility of pulling off our annual Independence Day Picnic in cooperation with the American Chamber of Commerce. It was a ton of exhausting work, but by all accounts, everyone thoroughly enjoyed the day! I am quite proud of our event and want to thank everyone who contributed to the spectacular success! A little over 24 hours later, (at 3am..ugh..)we were on our way for some much needed R&R in the States. We had a very relaxing and enjoyable month full of family and friends, zoo visits(photo above is from the Pittsburgh Zoo), amusement parks, and outrageous amounts of shopping. It was just what the doctor ordered. Now, if only we could figure out how to teleport ourselves back and forth and avoid the nearly 24 hour trip, it would have been perfect. Have I mentioned lately how much I DETEST airlines and their so called "customer service agents"??? I will spare you the details now, as I am trying to get past that unpleasantness and move on to happier thoughts!

I am hoping to be much more active on this blog in the coming weeks, as the kids are heading back to school soon (doing goofy dance now, thank goodness you can't see...lol) and life will return to normal. So...check back soon! Cheers!

Collier's 2nd Birthday!

On Saturday, May 16th, we celebrated Collier's birthday with several of our close friends and even some brand new ones. It was a lovely afternoon and he had a fantastic time. He was so excited to have such a big crowd croon the Birthday song to him! He is thoroughly enjoying his gifts and would like to thank everyone who made his day so special!

Skopje Top Ten List

Yesterday we had a meeting of the IWA Newsletter Committee to prepare for the September issue. As one of the new Co-Chairs, I thought it important to attend and see if I could assist in any way. There was a lively group a women full of fantastic ideas that fit with the "newcomers" theme for the issue. One idea in particular has inspired me to post my thoughts to this blog....our top ten favorite things about Skopje. In our discussion, we noticed how everyone is quick to discuss the negative things about life here i.e. the crazy drivers, the litter, the stray animals, the beggars, etc., but rarely do people talk about the things that make Skopje so wonderful. So, here it goes, my favorite things about Skopje.

1. (and my contribution to the group 10) The astounding mountain views that surround the city. I am amazed that after nearly a year here the mountains still captivate me with their texture, color, and absolute beauty. I am able to look past the overflowing dumpsters teeming with hungry cats and the boring Soviet Era architecture and be blown away by the majestic peaks. I love this most about Skopje.
2. I love watching children walking to and from school with their grandparents. When I was young, my grandmother lived 25 miles away and we saw her on occasional weekends. I love to see how family-based the society is, it warms my heart and I hope these children know how fortunate they are to have such close relationships with their extended family.
3. The amazing fresh vegetables and fruits, and I mean fresh. Many are locally grown, and when they are in season, the prices are rock-bottom. I bought gorgeous strawberries last week for less than a dollar a kilo (2.2 pounds). Cucumbers for 60 cents a kilo! You could never find prices like that in the US. Delicious tomatoes, fragrant herbs, and the list goes on...a veggie paradise.
4. Street vendors who sell the produce on corners. I remember last August when the watermelons were in season and there were carts full of them on the street corners. Deeply tanned men and women would attach their scales to the trees and weigh them for you on the spot. How charming is that?
5. Unlike most of my friends, I like that I have to buy a new loaf of bread every day or two. I love that they do not use preservatives and the bread is more natural. I love the many varieties of bread available. I love that there are at least 5 shops in walking distance of my home that sell fresh bread. And, I love watching people walking past my house carrying their purchases. I think it is a great reason to get out, chat with your neighbors, and get moving!
6. The smell of roasting peppers in the fall during ajvar preparation. Once the peppers are harvested and prepared for roasting, the air is perfumed with the most wonderful aromas. I am getting hungry just thinking of it!
7. The fact that I have seen very few insects inside our home. A couple of reasonable sized spiders show up every once in a while, and the occasional bee, but overall this has been the best place we have lived in terms of insect control. No monster sized spiders like in Lux, and no cockroaches like in Doha!
8. The IWA (International Women's Association) has been a terrific source of information and friendship for me. I feel like the transition to life here was simplified by my involvement with this great group of ladies, so I am happy to be a contributing member of the organization.
9. The relative safeness of life in this city. Yes, you do have to take precautions and be smart, but overall, things are pretty safe. Special care must be used in particular areas, but our neighborhood is not one of them. Kids can play unattended and freely, neighbors look out for one another, and everyone is out enjoying the weather. Of course, we still lock our doors and such, but when my husband is away, I still feel very safe alone in our home. That is priceless.
10. The fact that everything is so close. Skopje is a small city and very accessible. I can get wherever I need to go rather quickly and easily. Traffic is no where near as bad as in the US and that is quite refreshing. Heck, most of the things I need I can walk for anyway!

So, there you have it, a few of the things that have helped me enjoy our time here a bit more. Maybe you should come visit us and find some for yourself!

Our newest addition

Surprise...a new pet in the family! Yesterday as I was reluctantly, yet hurriedly, trying to get the dinner dishes done before Judge Judy and American Idol started, I noticed Yotee was gnawing on something odd outside the kitchen window. I scolded her and did a doubletake...could that really be what I thought it was? I rushed outside to check and sure enough it was...a turtle, a very terrified turtle. A rather large terrified turtle. How did he get into our securely fenced yard. He was definitely too wide to squeeze through the fence. Maybe someone dumped him in thinking we'd be good caretakers. I'm told that some people have found them randomly in their yards, so I guess maybe we are just lucky. Who knows, anyway, he is here.

I brought him inside to check him out and do a bit of research, gotta love the internet. After learning a bit about what he might like to eat, I coaxed him out of his shell with some cucumber and tomato. He seemed fine. Although traumatized, he did not appear to be injured and quickly began to explore the garden. Collier was fascinated with the new "doggie" and eagerly tried to give him the remaining tomato slices. After trailing him around for a while, we decided to give him some space and went indoors. Later in the evening, I couldn't find him, and assumed he must have gone off to hide. Fortunately, I did snap a couple photos earlier!

This afternoon, he showed up again, walking right past Yotee, who was locked up in the pen out in the garden (the pest control guy had just sprayed, so I couldn't give her free run of the yard.)almost teasingly. I think he'll be a great addition to our home, as long as we can teach him and Yotee to get along! So the Volciaks now have a Jel-ka, as they call it in Macedonia.

Haircuts

Why is it so difficult for me to get the kids' haircut? It is not a lack of opportunity....there are salons dotting our neighborhood, tons of them, and a new specialty kid's salon opened just steps from my son's school recently, complete with car-shaped seats and video screens to occupy the little ones during the snip-snip. I guess I am the problem!

Last week, I finally broke down and dragged Arianna to the salon for a cut. She had such spectacular hair, almost down to her waist and it was gorgeous when properly groomed. Unfortunately, it was a bit too difficult for her to manage, and so she often just put it in a ponytail. I would have to fight through the tangles and knots, which was not pleasant for either of us! Given her defiant, independent nature, she never wanted me to interfere, so last week the hair got seriously out of control and I insisted on the cut. She reluctantly agreed, and I was able to convince her to shed a few inches. When the stylist made the first cut and the six or so inches of hair fell to the floor, I almost wept. What had I done???? I felt nauseous and dizzy and filled with regret. In the end, she looked gorgeous and she was beaming proudly at her new look. Her hair looks so healthy and neat now. I was so proud of her, but I still feel guilty!

Collier's hair has been in his eyes for weeks. He is always pushing it out of his face, but I couldn't even begin to imagine him sitting nicely for a stylist--car-shaped chair or not. My friend kept encouraging me to do it myself. Just put on a movie or favorite TV show and just do it. I couldn't bear the thought. What if I messed it up? What if he moved and I cut him? I know he needed it, but I just couldn't do it. Yesterday, I finally gave in, knowing I would see my friend and she would be sure to bring up the topic again. I sat him on the kitchen counter, pulled out the scissors, brushed his hair forward and cut it! He resisted ... a lot. It was probably the longest 30 seconds of my life, but he looks absolutely adorable and you can once again see his gorgeous brown eyes. When we saw my friend a short while later, she commented on how cute he looked and he exclaimed "Yes!" proudly.

What is this strange psychological attachment to my kid's hair??? I guess it is resistance to change and not wanting to see them grow up, but I can't seem to let go. I kept Collier's little locks in a Ziploc baggie, and I wish I had thought to grab at least one strand of Arianna's! I guess I'll have to just be impulsive to get these haircuts done and not put much thought into it. Up next, Anastasia and Alina.....

Sorry it's been so long.....

Wow, it's been a while since I had the opportunity to sit here and type! April was a whirlwind of activities and holidays and it seemed to fly right by. We enjoyed celebrating two Easters-the traditional Christian one at home with our family, and the Orthodox one a week later with our friends for breakfast, and with Mladen and Gordana at their apartment for dinner. Breakfast was at the home of an American friend and his Macedonian wife, who we really like a lot. It was a terrific start to the day and the kids had a great time together. Their neighbor even let us visit his baby chicks, hatched the day before. They were adorable! Dinner with our landlords was equally fun. It was a lovely evening with delicious food--salads, special cheese from Prilep, baby goat meat (which is traditional and the girls absolutely loved), and yummy roasted potatoes. Of course, a little pivo (beer) and rakia (plum brandy) was available too...lol. Gordana prepared a cute little basket of decorated eggs for the girls to share and they really enjoyed cracking the eggs. We always enjoy our visits with them and are happy to be included. Soon they will travel to the US to celebrate the graduation of their children from Virginia Tech. We are so happy for them and wish them the best!

Easter traditions are very interesting here. They dye eggs as we do, but for a very different reason. The egg represents life and it is dyed red, which if I understand correctly, symbolizes the blood of Christ which was shed to absolve our sins. The mother dyes the eggs on Thursday before Easter and on Sunday, she awakens her children by rubbing the dyed eggs all over them to release their sins. One of Chris's coworkers jokes about how awkward it is to still have his mother do this to him as a grown man, but he appreciates the tradition. Gordana decorated her eggs in a really neat way, she placed the eggs in a nylon along with some leaves before dying them, which created a beautiful motif of the leaf on the egg. It was very clever and quite beautiful. At the Easter dinner, the family takes turns tapping their eggs together to see whose cracks first. The person whose egg does not crack is said to have good luck in the coming year. Fasting is strictly observed, especially on Good Friday and no work is done. Most preparations for the feast are completed on Thursday or Saturday. Most people serve lamb or goat, Mladen and a friend chose to share a goat and had it freshly slaughtered just prior to the holiday.

Aside from Easter, April was also a busy month at the Embassy. The new compound was finally made available for moving into and the weekend after the Orthodox Easter, the move was initiated. It was quite a project to coordinate the transfer of property, paperwork and electronics to the other side of town, but it went off successfully with few complications thanks to a dedicated team of personnel. While the staff toiled all weekend long, we "move widows" got together with the kids for some fun and picnicking. After many long nights and even longer days, the move was completed and things are starting to get back to normal, aside from all the unpacking yet to do! The CLO held a contest to see who could guess the closest number to the amount of boxes transferred to the new compound, and I can't wait to see what the final count was! The new Embassy is very nice, a bit sterile now, but it will be quite nice once everything is unpacked and everyone is settled in.

Well, thank goodness that busy month is over, although May is shaping up to be even busier!

Easter Events/Photos

Collier found a few eggs!

Anastasia with her treats.

Fun with friends at the Easter Egg Hunt!

Collier wasn't too sure about the bunny.

The kids enjoyed dying Easter eggs on the patio last night!

The build up to the Easter holiday has been full of fun activities including an Egg Hunt at our house for IWA members, an Egg Hunt at the Ambassador's house sponsored by the CLO office, and the dyeing of Easter eggs. The kids always enjoyed these kind of activities and I am happy that we are able to keep such traditions alive here in Macedonia! Happy Easter everyone!

Kokino/Valley of the Stone Dolls

The kids at Valley of the Stone Dolls

The "Dragon Lady" rock

A photo of the mountaintop at Kokino

The rocks had such interesting texture and color.

Arianna at Kokino
Here are some awesome photos from our recent trip to the Kokino Observatory, an ancient observatory located in the Northern part of Macedonia, and also from the Valley of Stone Dolls, an interesting group of rock formations. We travelled to these sites as part of a tour group arranged by the CLO through GO Macedonia! It was a lovely day to be outdoors and we enjoyed the fresh air and sunshine. Although it felt like we spent most of the day on the bus, it was still a very worthwhile trip and the historic sites we visited were stunning.


First, we stopped very briefly at Kumanovo and learned a bit about the observatory there, then proceded on to Kokino. It was a bit of a tough hike up the mountain due to the odd snowstorm the week before. The slippery conditions were quite challenging on the steep climb. Christopher made it all the way to the top, but Arianna's asthma started acting up, so she and I didn't quite get there. We did go to the base of the rock formation, and the views were breathtaking! While the others were exploring and learning more about the ancient rituals that took place atop the mountain, we kept busy photographing the herd of cattle that was wandering around at the base.

Next, we stopped at gas station to use the wretchedly disgusting bathrooms before heading on to the Valley of the Stone Dolls. We traveled through tiny, winding country lanes to reach the site, frequented by local picnickers, but rarely visited by other Macedonians. It is a neat place with a fascinating history. The rock formations are centuries old, and have the oddest shapes. There is even evidence of new formation being created. The locals believe that the stones resemble a wedding party and the legend has it that the formations are actually the bridal party, guests, and a scorned lover of the newly married husband. The story says that the man had two loves and chose one for his bride. The other lover was so angry she prayed that at his wedding, all would turn to stone. If you look at the formations closely, some actually take on human form. It was fun to compare my perspective with that of the others and try to label the various shapes. What a cool place!

More info about the trip in my next posting.......

Fickle Mother Nature

Yesterday as I was driving out to Bardovci to pick up a friend, I was lamenting about how I never had the opportunity to capture an image of the fantastic snow-capped mountains. En route to Bardovci, the views of the peaks are unobstucted and absolutely breathtaking. I vividly remember the first time I noticed the snowy peaks and how beautiful they were. I was leaving a playdate with a friend who had spent the last several tours in the Middle East, where the sand dunes are unique and cool, but not quite as stunning. We walked out the front door of our friend's house, and the mountains just grabbed us. We paused for a few minutes to absorb the image. Of course, being from Pennsylvania, I've seen mountains before, but none like these. I think the spectacular views of these mountains might be the saving grace of life in Bardovci. All the electrical, plumbing,and infrastructure issues and stress associated with them must simply melt away with those vistas.

I have always wanted to get a great photo of the mountains blanketed with soft, clean snow, but I never seem to have my camera on sunny days, and it seemed to me that with the impending change of the season that it might not happen this year. Fortunately for me, Mother Nature has decided to give me another opportunity! It is now snowing like crazy here! Hopefully this weekend the sun will come out and allow a chance to capture a terrific photo....stay posted!

Today's odd weather reminded me of a really cute remark by our babysitter earlier this month. She noted that March is the month of the woman, with March 8th being International Woman's Day. Hani said that the weather is like a woman, prone to frequently changing her mind. Mother Nature might feel like wearing her mini-skirt and short sleeves one day, but decide to put on her new leather jacket and boots the next. Thus, the weather changes to suit her mood! I thought that was really funny and makes so much sense. Apparently, today her boots are on and her stylish new umbrella is open!

Kale Fortress

The entrance to the fortress.


A view of a nearby Mosque through a "keyhole" in the stone wall.

Well, after nearly a year of living in Skopje, I finally paid a visit to one of the most "touristy" sites in town...Kale Fortress, known to locals as simply Kale (pronounced Kah-lay). I can't believe it took us so long to go there, and I am glad we finally did. It offers fantastic views of Skopje as well as some insight into the historical aspects of the structure. You can learn more about the history of the "castle" by searching wikipedia or your favorite search engine.

Kale seems to be very popular with not only tourists, but also with the many local families who were picnicking in the grassy areas surrounding the castle remains. Hani told me today she actually celebrated her wedding there many years ago. Inside the walls, there was a dog show going on and we were pleased to see so many adorable dogs happily enjoying the sunshine. The dogs were Sharplanina(Sharplaninec) breed and they were so sweet. Sharplaninas are indigenous to the Balkans, specifically the Macedonian mountain ranges, though it is thought they may have originally hailed from Asia. They are a hardy breed, very large and very loyal to their owners, and rumored to be fantastic with children. It was the first time I actually saw one, and now I want one! Owners proudly escorted their dogs around the Kale grounds, carrying the trophies they've earned. They were everywhere and surprisingly they all got along fabulously!

We wandered around the grounds for a while admiring the exquisite stone work and the amazing condition of the ancient structures. It was a lovely sunny afternoon, so the view was clear and gorgeous. We took lots of photos and I hope you enjoy them! I wish I had taken some photos of the dogs, but alas I didn't so here is a link to a site featuring Sharplaninas...http://www.unet.com.mk/sharplaninec/features.htm or google sharplaninec for tons of great images.

Saturday stroll in the Center

A side view of the new monument.

Arianna with "The Golden Cat"

"The Glitzy Girl"


The new Mother Teresa Monument


Saturday we decided to head into the center to purchase new shoes for Arianna. Amazingly, her feet have grown so fast that she is now wearing the same size as me and therefore has laid claim to my favorite sneakers. To reclaim my shoes, I had to find new ones for her, and since it was such a lovely day, we went shopping. We actually found a decent pair rather quickly, thank goodness. Several months ago when searching for dress shoes for Alina, we were forced to pay the equivalent of $20 for some hideous black sparkly flats that I absolutely hate!!! Arianna lucked out and found some cool shoes for a good price.

On the way back to the parking lot at Ramstor, I snapped of few photos of things that I find interesting. A while back, I posted a photo of the Mother Teresa statue and I mentioned that they were constructing a monument in her honor. Well, it is complete and it is a very interesting architectural structure. I especially like the images of the doves on the front of the building and the beautiful wooden door at the gate. Another newer statue of Mother Teresa is placed on the side of the building, though the original remains too. Unfortunately, the descriptive plaque has already been "tagged" by grafitti artists in true Macedonian style. It is a neat place and someday we will venture up to the top balcony and maybe inside...difficult with a stroller unfortunately.

The other photos are of a couple of sculptures that have recently appeared in the city center. A while back, (uh-oh sounding repetitive) the Ministry of Culture announced the commissioning of a number of sculptures to be placed throughout the center. This move really annoyed many people who thought that public funds should be spent on more important needs, and frankly I agree. It is silly to waste money on art when people are starving and begging on the streets, but I do understand the motives in some small way. The pieces actually do attract a lot of attention and I always see tourists and Macedonians alike posing for photos next to them. I have included photos of two of the sculptures that I pass regularly.

Another interesting observation from our stroll: the upcoming election is gaining momentum and candidates have set up a number of campaign offices in the center. They are brightly decorated and attract attention with loud music and video. I was going to snap some photos but wasn't sure how well that would be received!

Just a typical day out in Skopje!

A picture of my boys!

As promised to Grandma, here is a photo of the boys taken on Daddy's birthday. Unfortunately, the typical teenager never wants to accompany us on most of our adventures, so photos of him are lacking on this blog.

Strolling Along the Vardar

This morning, as usual, I was having trouble getting motivated. I did dust, clean the mirrors on our shoe closets (I absolutely adore these, but they are always smudged), clean one bathroom, start a load of laundry, and empty the dishwasher. Vacuuming and mopping got put on hold as the lure of the computer was too great. I sat down to read my email and received a phone call from a friend inviting me to join her for a stroll along the Vardar. The two of us recently lamented that we need to get out an exercise more often, so she thought of me to accompany her on a long walk with her beagle.

Before coming to Skopje, one thing that I found really appealing on the www.realpostreports.com description of the city was the existence of a well developed walking/biking path along the Vardar. I actually had imagined what it would look like and envisioned myself wasting hours exploring the riverside. I love to walk, so this was perfect. Actually, you can access part of the path just a couple blocks from our home, so it is inconceivable that I haven't taken advantage of the opportunity yet. I guess I have just been afraid to do it alone. The thought of being harassed by Roma children following me and begging didn't seem relaxing at all. Not to mention the fact that they have become seriously aggressive in recent weeks. A number of people I know have been accosted lately, and it has been reported that some have even been robbed. Safety first is my motto and I have avoided walking along the river up to this point.

Today, however, I nervously accepted the invite and ventured out with my friend and had a lovely time. The weather was gorgeous, just chilly enough to keep you comfy, and the sun was shining warmly in the sky. We decided to start out near the school and surprisingly, the route was very well-kept and much nicer than I had expected. Numerous people were out and about rollerblading, biking, collecting plastic bottles, and strolling with their kids. It felt very safe due to the company of all the other sun-seekers and we were able to get lost in conversation instead of worrying about who might be approaching us. We strolled for about an hour and the steady movement sent Collier right to sleep. It was a really nice way to start the day and it certainly motivated me to get up and get busy....unfortunately not to vacuum..lol.

Treska Recreation Center

The girls with the beautiful view behind them.

One of the many rundown restaurant/snack areas.


Arianna in front of the dilapidated pools.





After our walk near Matka, we stopped at the Treska Recreation Center before returning home. It is a large man-made lake that was created by a company in New Jersey many years ago to provide a resort like refuge for families. There is a huge lake with cement beach areas, pebble beach areas, several restaurants, camping areas, basketball courts, soccer pitches, and childrens' pools. There are fountains dotting the path surrounding the lake and several trees lining the route. Caravans and cabins parked at the opposite end of the lake suggest that people still use the facility.

Unfortunately, it has not been maintained and is in a terrible state, which is truly a shame. Signs warn visitors not to swim. The pools are crumbling and littered with trash. The basketball hoops are rusted and broken. The windows on most of the snack bars and changing rooms are shattered. Dozens of posts stick out of the ground, probably remnants of a large deck or stage long destroyed. I have heard wonderful stories of how beautiful the place used to be and was so disappointed to see that it has fallen into such disrepair. Our neighbor told us of how they celebrated her wedding there and how lovely it was. Now it is just a sad reminder of what seems to be the Macedonian way....tremendous potential for beauty, but no one interested in promoting or maintaining it. Apparently, the filters that keep the lake clean were no longer available or too costly, so they just let it go and the rest of the facilities have followed suit. I read in the Bradt guide that the center was a haven for Albanian families and I have to wonder if that is one reason why little effort was made to maintain it. I am sure in it's heyday the center was breathtaking and a real gem for families seeking fun in the sun. It broke my heart to see such a great place in ruins and such an opportunity wasted. Hopefully, someday a wise European investor will once again see the potential and restore the site to it's previous glory.

We still enjoyed walking the length of the lake and admiring the breathtaking views of the mountains surrounding the valley. It was amazing how small Mt. Vodno looked compared to the peaks around the Treska River/Matka area. The Millenium cross sat so much lower than those peaks and it really put some perspective on the size of the mountains for us. I wish I had my better camera so I could show you....maybe if there's a next time, although I doubt it...too depressing.

Matka

Layers of rock on the side of the mountain at Matka.


A view along side the river.



Yesterday we decided to take advantage of the lovely weather once again and ventured out to try and find Lake Matka. Lake Matka is a man-made lake that was created to aid in the production of electric power and is located about 17km from Skopje. Supposedly, the lake has stunning views and is surrounded by a number of old churches and monasteries that are worth visiting. We probably should have asked someone how to find them before going, because we never made it any further than the HydroElectric Plant at the dam. Apparently, the lake is beyond there, but we weren't sure how to access it.

We did enjoy a lovely walk along the path to the dam, accompanied by some sweet little dogs who walked along side us. The mountains were beautiful and it was interesting to see all the layers of rock comprising the vertical formations. On the side on the mountain, we noticed a Macedonian woman walking with a herd of goats, presumably to the green pastures on the other side of the river. It was a really touching scene and she traversed the steep path as if she had done it thousands of times before. It was a nice stroll next to the babbling river and the air was fresh and clean!

Later in the evening I did some research on the area and found some specific directions to the lake and the churches, so we'll try again on another sunny day!

Visit to the Zoo and Museum of Natural History

Today was such a lovely day that we decided to get outdoors for a little while. Though we find the zoo a bit depressing, the kids really enjoy it, so we went for a visit. It was quite crowded with local families taking advantage of the nice weather. We saw bears today that we somehow missed on our previous visit, and we enjoyed watching zookeepers feed the hippos. The hippos just sat there with their mouths wide open waiting for the fruit to land inside...it was pretty funny. Arianna took lots of photos, some of which you can see above.

Today we also checked out the Museum of Natural History, which was very nice and had plenty of interesting exhibits. It was very cold inside though! The temperature outdoors was in the low 50's, and I think it was probably half that in the museum! I'm sure that in the summer it is the complete opposite though. Aside from two other families, we had the whole place to ourselves and Collier really enjoyed running from display to display. The girls especially liked all the animal exhibits and found it very informative. I am sure we will visit again soon.

Photos from Villa Marija Winery

Though the Villa has fallen into a state of disrepair, there is hope for restoring it on the horizon, as UNESCO has expressed interest in assisting the effort.

These huge barrels came from the royal vineyards in Serbia and were made in the early 1930s. Each can hold up to 7000 liters of wine!

There were also plenty of smaller barrels and the aroma of the wine and the oak was strong.