It has been quite a sociable week for us here in Skopje. Thank goodness too! With one of our laptops malfunctioning and the unbearable heat outdoors, the kids have been very restless. The opportunity to visit with new friends has been much appreciated.
A couple weeks ago, we discovered that our neighbors across the street had guests from Dubai. Irena and her family were here visiting her mother, Baba Slavitska, our neighbor. Irena had lived in London for several years with her husband and their 3 sons, but they recently relocated to Dubai and were here escaping the cruel August heat and humidity of Dubai. Last week, we met up with the kids at a local indoor playground and had a nice chat, and she issued an open invitation to pop over anytime. Monday evening, she insisted that we come over. We enjoyed some nice conversation, snacked on fresh plums and pears from their garden, and drank some Pivo (beer). It was a great opportunity to meet several of our Macedonian neighbors and the kids made some new friends.
We also learned quite a bit about the history of our street and our house. Apparently, most of the houses on our street were gifted by Tito to Greeks returning to Macedonia, and although they own the homes, the land is still owned by the government. Baba Slavitska's home has been in the family for generations and she is hoping to purchase the land soon. Our home does not fall into this category, it (and the land) is owned by the landlords. Mladen (our landlord)'s family are among the original inhabitants of this area and they were actually not too thrilled to see the program put in place! Our home, whose name is Villa Persida, is named for Mladen's paternal grandmother, and has won numerous architectural awards. Irena recalls how exciting it was to watch it being constructed around 12 years ago.
Tuesday, Christopher had his orientation day at school and spent 3 hours playing games and getting to know some of his fellow classmates. He enjoyed it. The house was full of children, as the girls played with Ivana (Baba Slavitska's granddaughter) and Arina (another neighbor). Arina's older brother, Stefan, came by to hang out with Chris and play basketball and Playstation. It was nice to have friends over and the kids had a great day!
Later in the evening, we accepted an invitation from Mladen and his wife, Gordana, to join them for some "pellichinki" (homemade crepes). We had a lovely time and enjoyed the crepes filled with jam, chocolate, and ham/cheese. The girls were shy at first, but opened up and had a lot of fun. Mladen does not speak English, but Gordana speaks very well. I am starting to pick up quite a few words of Macedonian, and though I could not catch most of his discussion, it was easy to grasp that he has a great sense of humor! He is a very congenial man and Chris enjoyed putting his Macedonian skills to the test. Mladen used to play soccer, later he coached a local club team, and eventually became a director. He is an electrician as well, but we were surprised to find he is retired, as he is so young. They proudly shared photos of the children Dragan and Dragana, who are studying at Virginia Tech right now. I suspect the rent that the Embassy pays for our home is paying a large part of their tuition, and that makes me very happy! They are a lovely family, and we are looking forward to getting to know them more.
Wednesday, the Embassy hosted a Hail and Farewell to welcome new families and say goodbye to the departing Ambassador, but I decided to skip it due to Collier. He wasn't feeling well, so I felt it best to stay home.
Thursday was the first day of school for the girls, and after dropping them off, I joined a number of parents at a nearby tennis club for coffee. It was a very nice way to kick off the new school year. I met several new women and enjoyed the conversation. They provided lots of useful information about hairdressers, restaurants, best places to shop for kid's clothes, etc. Collier enjoyed playing in all the mud puddles caused by the previous night's storms! It was a very messy but fun morning, and I learned a lot about the school and the community.
We were also invited to a barbecue on Saturday, but it was cancelled to illness. Instead, we took the kids out to dinner at a very nice pizza place that was recommended to me by the ladies on Thursday. It was very nice, but the location just across from the stadium proved to be a problem. Just as we were departing, the soccer game ended and it was quite chaotic. The waiter suggested that we wait a while before leaving, as some of the fans were getting too rowdy. Apparently, it was a match between ethnic Albanians and Macedonians and the tensions were high. The police arrived almost immediately and restored calm. The girls were happy with the delay--they each enjoyed two scoops of ice cream! At only $1.50, it was a true bargain!
So, it has been a busy week and we are all exhausted, but we enjoyed spending time with our new friends and look forward to many more opportunities for socializing!
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Friday, August 22, 2008
Cute kids--human and canine!
Yesterday, we took a walk around the corner to visit the puppies. (A couple weeks ago I noticed a stray in our neighborhood had a litter, and the entire family, minus my husband, has been obsessed with them ever since!) There are 4 of them, cute little flea-infested furballs, resembling yellow labs. They are absolutely precious and I want to take one home! For now, we just visit them and bring leftovers and stale bread for the mom to eat. Chris is adamant about not taking in another pet, and for very good reasons. It is extremely difficult travelling with our pets, and it can cause incredible stress. The kids and I are trying to change his mind on an hourly basis.
Well, as you can imagine, such adorable puppies are a big draw to the neighborhood kids. Joining us in puppy playtime were two sweet little Macedonian boys, and they were fascinated by our use of the English language. One little boy tried to communicate by using all of the English phrases in his vocabulary. Hello! Thank you very much! I love you Mother, I love you Father, I love you sister, I love you baby. He just repeated these words over and over in an exuberant tone and was so proud of himself. It was absolutely adorable---perhaps even cuter than the playful pups!!
Well, as you can imagine, such adorable puppies are a big draw to the neighborhood kids. Joining us in puppy playtime were two sweet little Macedonian boys, and they were fascinated by our use of the English language. One little boy tried to communicate by using all of the English phrases in his vocabulary. Hello! Thank you very much! I love you Mother, I love you Father, I love you sister, I love you baby. He just repeated these words over and over in an exuberant tone and was so proud of himself. It was absolutely adorable---perhaps even cuter than the playful pups!!
Afterwards, we enjoyed a nice stroll around the area and went home to shower and make sure we didn't bring any fleas with us!
Friday, August 15, 2008
Sanitation Service/Recycling
I mentioned before how Skopje is still developing and how they have some issues with maintaining litter, however, they do have a good system in place for trash removal. There are numerous dumpsters throughout the city, and most folks have to take their garbage to the closest dumpster for removal, particularly around apartment buildings. Most of the time there are lots of cats climbing in and out, and it is heartbreaking to see the tiny kittens digging for food or sleeping underneath to stay cool. In our neighborhood, however, we have trash collection at our home twice a week, although we never really know when those 2 days will be! It seems to change weekly....lol. We were instructed to place our cans out on Tuesdays and Saturdays, but sometimes they pick up on Wednesday, sometimes Thursday, or sometimes not at all! Last week, on Friday, the sanitation service politely rang our doorbell to see if we had trash to remove, since he could not access our bins (our property is surrounded by a wrought-iron fence). He explained in Macedonian, which even Chris had trouble understanding, that this was a one-time exception Friday pick-up. We had to laugh at the insinuation that there was a regular schedule involved.
The most unusual thing about the service is the hours at which they conduct their business. After noticing that no one had placed their cans out on Tuesday, I waited until Wednesday morning to put ours out. Wednesday night, we checked before bedtime to see if it was picked up, and it was not. We lamented that perhaps there would not be a pick-up until Saturday, but at 11:37pm, I was startled by an extremely loud rumbling. Frightened, I woke up Chris, who determined that the sound was caused by the garbage men! At almost midnight, they were collecting the trash! Although, they conduct their business unusually, at least they keep our garbage moving.
Recycling is another curious thing here. I read on the USAID website a while back that they have provided guidance and grants to Macedonia to encourage/develop a recycling program. Although I have seen recycling bins inside the Embassy, I have only seen one on the streets, and it doesn't seem as though folks even attempt to recycle---except for the Roma. You can see them digging through dumpsters and pulling out all the plastic bottles and cardboard. Many even have specially equipped bicycles with huge metal baskets on a trailer to carry their finds. I assume that they must take it somewhere and receive some kind of reimbursement or they would do it, but I can't find any information about that. We have decided to save them the trouble of digging, and we bag our plastics separately and deposit them beside the closest dumpster to our house. They are usually gone in minutes!
It is truly an odd scenenario here-- on one corner there is a charming, shaded wrinkled old man selling tomatoes and melons from his garden, while across the street there will be a deeply tanned, dirty man digging through the dumpster for anything he can sell/use. One is fortunate to have a plot of land for a garden, one lives in squalor in a crowded camp. I hope that someday this society will find a way to curb the %30 unemployment rate and find both of these men a more productive way to survive, but for now both seem at ease with their lives. More on the Roma next time.
Cheers!
The most unusual thing about the service is the hours at which they conduct their business. After noticing that no one had placed their cans out on Tuesday, I waited until Wednesday morning to put ours out. Wednesday night, we checked before bedtime to see if it was picked up, and it was not. We lamented that perhaps there would not be a pick-up until Saturday, but at 11:37pm, I was startled by an extremely loud rumbling. Frightened, I woke up Chris, who determined that the sound was caused by the garbage men! At almost midnight, they were collecting the trash! Although, they conduct their business unusually, at least they keep our garbage moving.
Recycling is another curious thing here. I read on the USAID website a while back that they have provided guidance and grants to Macedonia to encourage/develop a recycling program. Although I have seen recycling bins inside the Embassy, I have only seen one on the streets, and it doesn't seem as though folks even attempt to recycle---except for the Roma. You can see them digging through dumpsters and pulling out all the plastic bottles and cardboard. Many even have specially equipped bicycles with huge metal baskets on a trailer to carry their finds. I assume that they must take it somewhere and receive some kind of reimbursement or they would do it, but I can't find any information about that. We have decided to save them the trouble of digging, and we bag our plastics separately and deposit them beside the closest dumpster to our house. They are usually gone in minutes!
It is truly an odd scenenario here-- on one corner there is a charming, shaded wrinkled old man selling tomatoes and melons from his garden, while across the street there will be a deeply tanned, dirty man digging through the dumpster for anything he can sell/use. One is fortunate to have a plot of land for a garden, one lives in squalor in a crowded camp. I hope that someday this society will find a way to curb the %30 unemployment rate and find both of these men a more productive way to survive, but for now both seem at ease with their lives. More on the Roma next time.
Cheers!
Monday, August 11, 2008
Macedonian Wedding Encounter
Yesterday, we were fortunate to come a across a happy event just blocks from our home. We were returning from the grocery store around 4pm, and turned into our neighborhood only to find the street completely full of people. A beautifully dressed couple had apparently just been married, and there was a lovely procession taking place in the street complete with flowers, banners, and plenty of well-wishers. A videographer was capturing the event. I caught a glimpse of the bride and was somewhat surprised (and a bit disappointed) to see her dress was a traditional Western style gown, much like my own. I had hoped for a colorful traditional costume, but she looked gorgeous anyway. A few weeks ago, while en route to Kosovo, I witnessed a similar wedding party, with the groom on horseback, outfitted in colorful traditional garb, presumably on his way to meet his bride. Traditionally, the groom is first shaved by his Kym and kyma (godparents), then he proceeds on horseback to the bride's home. What we saw yesterday was obviously a more modern celebration.
It was very exciting to see and it peaked my curiosity about Macedonian weddings. There are numerous videos available on YouTube if you are interested in checking it out. Each year in Galicnik, the town holds a traditional wedding ceremony for the tourists and there are many recordings of it available. Travel agencies here in Skopje actually offer "Weekend Wedding" tours! I find weddings fascinating and love to see how different cultures celebrate. In Doha, we were lucky enough to be invited to a big, authentic Indian wedding reception. It was amazing, with so much color and music. What I remember most though, was the fact that the bride looked so sad. I found out later that Indian brides are not supposed to smile. Insert quote from Bend It Like Beckham here...lol. I hope to see a real Macedonian wedding too, not just be a bystander as I drive by.
I found an interesting article on the web about how Macedonian wedding traditions are changing, and though I feel it is probably a bit exaggerated, it makes a good point. The article is titled My Big, Fat Macedonian Wedding, http://www.businessweek.com/globalbiz/content/jun2008/gb20080624_727861.htm, and it discusses how many Macedonians are favoring large, lavish Western style events, even if they can't afford them. Just last week, we saw a large limo near Chris' office, and Christopher wondered how anyone could afford to hire it. I reminded him that as long as people get married, there will always be business for limo drivers. We all seem to spend, spend, spend when it comes to weddings, no matter who we are! The article also touches on arranged marriages, which are no longer common here in Macedonia, but used to be prevalent. The point is that while Macedonians may not have wealth, they still want to enjoy life and celebrate what they do have! I also found the comments on the page interesting--just ignore the Greek troll. I'll save the FYROM name debate for another day!
Cheers!
It was very exciting to see and it peaked my curiosity about Macedonian weddings. There are numerous videos available on YouTube if you are interested in checking it out. Each year in Galicnik, the town holds a traditional wedding ceremony for the tourists and there are many recordings of it available. Travel agencies here in Skopje actually offer "Weekend Wedding" tours! I find weddings fascinating and love to see how different cultures celebrate. In Doha, we were lucky enough to be invited to a big, authentic Indian wedding reception. It was amazing, with so much color and music. What I remember most though, was the fact that the bride looked so sad. I found out later that Indian brides are not supposed to smile. Insert quote from Bend It Like Beckham here...lol. I hope to see a real Macedonian wedding too, not just be a bystander as I drive by.
I found an interesting article on the web about how Macedonian wedding traditions are changing, and though I feel it is probably a bit exaggerated, it makes a good point. The article is titled My Big, Fat Macedonian Wedding, http://www.businessweek.com/globalbiz/content/jun2008/gb20080624_727861.htm, and it discusses how many Macedonians are favoring large, lavish Western style events, even if they can't afford them. Just last week, we saw a large limo near Chris' office, and Christopher wondered how anyone could afford to hire it. I reminded him that as long as people get married, there will always be business for limo drivers. We all seem to spend, spend, spend when it comes to weddings, no matter who we are! The article also touches on arranged marriages, which are no longer common here in Macedonia, but used to be prevalent. The point is that while Macedonians may not have wealth, they still want to enjoy life and celebrate what they do have! I also found the comments on the page interesting--just ignore the Greek troll. I'll save the FYROM name debate for another day!
Cheers!
Friday, August 8, 2008
Dining Out
Eating is also an adventure due to the presence of a very active toddler at the table! Collier is a terrific eater; his diet is healthy and varied and he'll eat just about everything in front of him. The problem is getting him to sit still to eat it! He prefers to be in motion, and can't stand to sit, not even to enjoy his food. This presents a big problem for us, particularly when dining out.
We enjoy our weekly trips to local restaurants, at least we used to. Here in Macedonia, the lack of highchairs in restaurants is making our dining experience less than pleasant. So far, the only place I have seen one is McDonald's, and I hate McDonald's! We have found a couple really lovely places to go, but alas, no highchairs.
Duomo is a lovely outdoor cafe, which is veranda covered and cooled by large fans. There is a fountain(very attractive to the girls and the busy baby) and fresh greenery all around; it truly is a beautiful environment for dining. The food is fantastic too. We usually share some Shopska salads, and last week we discovered their delicious garlic bread (shaped like a calzone, with gooey cheese and chunks of roasted garlic inside). The kids have pasta or pizza, and their roasted vegetable risotto is to die for! The chef would have no problem cooking it for Chef Ramsey on Hell's Kitchen--it's perfectly done and wonderfully flavorful.
Day and Night is more formal, but they do have a playground area outside their dining room for the kids. Unfortunately, it's always too hot to take advantage of it! Their menu is huge and so are their portions---one meal lasts us for two days. They actually have chicken fingers for Christopher, and he is starting to accept the sesame seeds on the coating. Their veggie pizza is yummy and their homemade bread is out of this world!
While we still miss Longhorn and Macaroni Grill, we look forward to our outings here too. Prices are quite reasonable. All 7 of us eat well for around $45, including tip, usually with leftovers for later. Tipping is not the norm here, most people just round to the next even number. We, however, leave 10 percent. (In the US, we were standard 20 percenters, but here that would be too weird.) So as you can imagine, we are very popular with the waiters, and receive a warm welcome and excellent service!
We usually try to eat out at odd hours, not too hard, given that Europeans, including Macedonians, eat very late. That way, Collier's behavior doesn't disturb anyone...except me. I eat with him on my lap, and his cute little fingers in my food. I feel sorry for whoever has to launder the linen tablecloths! Last week, after losing a good bit of my precious risotto to the tablecloth, I came home and ordered a portable highchair to use in restaurants. Amazon was kind enough to ship it the next day, at no additional charge, so I hope that by next weekend, I will be enjoying my meal in peace!!
We enjoy our weekly trips to local restaurants, at least we used to. Here in Macedonia, the lack of highchairs in restaurants is making our dining experience less than pleasant. So far, the only place I have seen one is McDonald's, and I hate McDonald's! We have found a couple really lovely places to go, but alas, no highchairs.
Duomo is a lovely outdoor cafe, which is veranda covered and cooled by large fans. There is a fountain(very attractive to the girls and the busy baby) and fresh greenery all around; it truly is a beautiful environment for dining. The food is fantastic too. We usually share some Shopska salads, and last week we discovered their delicious garlic bread (shaped like a calzone, with gooey cheese and chunks of roasted garlic inside). The kids have pasta or pizza, and their roasted vegetable risotto is to die for! The chef would have no problem cooking it for Chef Ramsey on Hell's Kitchen--it's perfectly done and wonderfully flavorful.
Day and Night is more formal, but they do have a playground area outside their dining room for the kids. Unfortunately, it's always too hot to take advantage of it! Their menu is huge and so are their portions---one meal lasts us for two days. They actually have chicken fingers for Christopher, and he is starting to accept the sesame seeds on the coating. Their veggie pizza is yummy and their homemade bread is out of this world!
While we still miss Longhorn and Macaroni Grill, we look forward to our outings here too. Prices are quite reasonable. All 7 of us eat well for around $45, including tip, usually with leftovers for later. Tipping is not the norm here, most people just round to the next even number. We, however, leave 10 percent. (In the US, we were standard 20 percenters, but here that would be too weird.) So as you can imagine, we are very popular with the waiters, and receive a warm welcome and excellent service!
We usually try to eat out at odd hours, not too hard, given that Europeans, including Macedonians, eat very late. That way, Collier's behavior doesn't disturb anyone...except me. I eat with him on my lap, and his cute little fingers in my food. I feel sorry for whoever has to launder the linen tablecloths! Last week, after losing a good bit of my precious risotto to the tablecloth, I came home and ordered a portable highchair to use in restaurants. Amazon was kind enough to ship it the next day, at no additional charge, so I hope that by next weekend, I will be enjoying my meal in peace!!
Cheese Please!
Eating has been an adventure here in Skopje. I seriously miss my daily trips to the Giant salad bar for lunch! There are two types of salads popular in Macedonia--the Macedonian, which has cucumbers, fried peppers, tomatoes, and oil &spices; and the Skopska salad, which has cucumbers, tomatoes, onion, oil&spices, and mounds of grated sirenje (soft white cheese). Both are quite delicious, but a far cry from the offerings at Giant! I am expecting a delivery of imitation bacon bits any day now--who new you could miss those??
It is always difficult to adjust to new products and the lack of familiar ones. The biggest issue here has been cheese. We are definitely cheese addicts, and the lack of cheddar, Monterrey jack, and processed/shredded mozzarella is definitely disappointing! The local hard cheese is called Kashkaval, and it can be made with either cow or sheep's milk. I had hoped it would be similar to cheddar, but it most resembles provolone. It's not bad, but I am have a hard time getting used to it. I am amazed to see it selling on specialty websites for outrageous prices when it is so cheap here...think I'll go into business as a Kashkaval exporter....lol. Feta is very popular, and Arianna and I love it, so that is good. They sell this interesting blend called "Pizzarella" for making pizzas, and it doesn't taste bad, but it is nearly impossible to melt!
Fortunately, there is a US military base in Kosovo that we have access to where we can purchase Kraft shredded cheddar for a mere $4.10 for 8 ounces...grrr. I can't believe how expensive that is, but we are paying it! Last weekend, Chris bought me 9 packages and we have eaten well this week--baked potato skins, nachos, and my favorite--au gratin potatoes...mmm. My biggest problem now is hiding it from Christopher and trying to make him understand that the next time Daddy goes to Kosovo, they may not have any cheddar, so he should conserve. Or heaven forbid, we could loose our access if violence flares up or a new CO takes over the base and decides to keep us out. It is funny how much the little things we take for granted, like cheese, ranch dressing, or decent canned tuna, make such a profound difference in our level of happiness.
Cheers!
It is always difficult to adjust to new products and the lack of familiar ones. The biggest issue here has been cheese. We are definitely cheese addicts, and the lack of cheddar, Monterrey jack, and processed/shredded mozzarella is definitely disappointing! The local hard cheese is called Kashkaval, and it can be made with either cow or sheep's milk. I had hoped it would be similar to cheddar, but it most resembles provolone. It's not bad, but I am have a hard time getting used to it. I am amazed to see it selling on specialty websites for outrageous prices when it is so cheap here...think I'll go into business as a Kashkaval exporter....lol. Feta is very popular, and Arianna and I love it, so that is good. They sell this interesting blend called "Pizzarella" for making pizzas, and it doesn't taste bad, but it is nearly impossible to melt!
Fortunately, there is a US military base in Kosovo that we have access to where we can purchase Kraft shredded cheddar for a mere $4.10 for 8 ounces...grrr. I can't believe how expensive that is, but we are paying it! Last weekend, Chris bought me 9 packages and we have eaten well this week--baked potato skins, nachos, and my favorite--au gratin potatoes...mmm. My biggest problem now is hiding it from Christopher and trying to make him understand that the next time Daddy goes to Kosovo, they may not have any cheddar, so he should conserve. Or heaven forbid, we could loose our access if violence flares up or a new CO takes over the base and decides to keep us out. It is funny how much the little things we take for granted, like cheese, ranch dressing, or decent canned tuna, make such a profound difference in our level of happiness.
Cheers!
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Car repair
Last Thursday, our 15th wedding anniversary:), I picked up Chris from work. As usual, we stopped at the Vero market to pick up some groceries. When I tried to turn off the car, the key wouldn't turn all the way. The engine was off, but the key was stuck in the ignition! Chris fiddled with it while I shopped--we decided it wasn't a good idea to leave the car unoccupied in the lot with the key stuck in it, so he stayed behind. We were still able to drive the car over the weekend, being careful to lock it with our second key and parking in secured lots. The following Monday, he took the car to the dealership for repair. They easily fixed the problem and it cost only around $50! I imagine something like that would have run us several hundred dollars in the US. Another great thing about life in Macedonia--quick service at a reasonable cost!
Cheers!
Cheers!
Meeting New People/Learning New Things
We were fortunate enough to arrange the purchase of a Honda Odyssey prior to our arrival, so on our second day in Skopje, we ventured out shopping. Lamenting the lack of air-conditioning and overwhelmed by the foreign labels in the Vero Market, I was approached by a lovely American couple who were certain that we were fellow Americans. They knew not just because of the English, but because after 4 years here, they noticed that Macedonians rarely have 5 children in the family! I tried hard to remember their #, and I succeeded, but didn't call as things got busy.
We saw them again a week later at another mall, yes Skopje is THAT small, and they kindly invited us to a BBQ. They also invited another American family with sons close in age to Christopher. We had an enjoyable afternoon full of delicious food (terrific coleslaw...mmm) and great company. There were get-to-know-you games, crafts and a scavenger hunt for the kids, and good conversation. The kids bonded rather quickly and played nicely. It was a memorable picnic.
Painfully shy and silent, Anastasia nearly gave our host, Sam, a heart attack when she rambled on about the tooth fairy, after she lost her first tooth. Sam informed us of the Macedonian tradition of throwing your lost tooth onto the roof for good luck. I later confirmed this with our landlord, who said, "What else should we do with all those teeth?" I suspect there our many teeth on our roof! I suppose it's better than just shoving them in some drawer.
Our hosts had two adorable little dogs, whom they rescued from life on the street. They are sweet, affectionate, and well-behaved, but still street-savvy, as shown when they bolted after some cats to protect their territory. Stray dogs (cuchay) are really common here, and it's really hard not to snatch them all up and take them home with you! I applaud those who take them in, and I'm trying to convince my husband that Yotee needs a playmate!
Andrea, our hostess, shared photos of the home she and Sam are refurbishing for their retirement upon return to the US. Later, she brought out a fascinating photo album full of before and after images of the July 26th 1963 earthquake that devastated Skopje. She found it laying in the dirt and purchased it for a song at a Roma Bazaar. The images were amazing and stirring--once sturdy and tall buildings in ruin, homes collapsed, injured people helping others, and politicians like Kruchev and Tito touring the devastation. I knew the quake was bad, but those images put a new perspective on things. It is testament to the fortitude of the Macedonians and I am amazed at what they have accomplished in it's aftermath! She plans to donate it to a local museum before they leave Skopje.
I hope we have lots of days like that one here in Skopje!
We saw them again a week later at another mall, yes Skopje is THAT small, and they kindly invited us to a BBQ. They also invited another American family with sons close in age to Christopher. We had an enjoyable afternoon full of delicious food (terrific coleslaw...mmm) and great company. There were get-to-know-you games, crafts and a scavenger hunt for the kids, and good conversation. The kids bonded rather quickly and played nicely. It was a memorable picnic.
Painfully shy and silent, Anastasia nearly gave our host, Sam, a heart attack when she rambled on about the tooth fairy, after she lost her first tooth. Sam informed us of the Macedonian tradition of throwing your lost tooth onto the roof for good luck. I later confirmed this with our landlord, who said, "What else should we do with all those teeth?" I suspect there our many teeth on our roof! I suppose it's better than just shoving them in some drawer.
Our hosts had two adorable little dogs, whom they rescued from life on the street. They are sweet, affectionate, and well-behaved, but still street-savvy, as shown when they bolted after some cats to protect their territory. Stray dogs (cuchay) are really common here, and it's really hard not to snatch them all up and take them home with you! I applaud those who take them in, and I'm trying to convince my husband that Yotee needs a playmate!
Andrea, our hostess, shared photos of the home she and Sam are refurbishing for their retirement upon return to the US. Later, she brought out a fascinating photo album full of before and after images of the July 26th 1963 earthquake that devastated Skopje. She found it laying in the dirt and purchased it for a song at a Roma Bazaar. The images were amazing and stirring--once sturdy and tall buildings in ruin, homes collapsed, injured people helping others, and politicians like Kruchev and Tito touring the devastation. I knew the quake was bad, but those images put a new perspective on things. It is testament to the fortitude of the Macedonians and I am amazed at what they have accomplished in it's aftermath! She plans to donate it to a local museum before they leave Skopje.
I hope we have lots of days like that one here in Skopje!
Power of The "Mother Tongue"
For me, the thing that gave me most concern about relocating to Skopje, was the fact that I would not know the language. I had originally planned to take the language training with my husband, but the unexpected, yet very welcome arrival of Collier changed those plans :). At our previous posts language was not a problem--everyone in Doha and Luxembourg spoke English, and I am practically fluent in French, so I was comfortable with my ability to communicate. A few pleasantries in Arabic or Luxembourgish helped us blend even more.
I recall two incidences where I was unable to communicate in the local language, and I felt very anxious and uncomfortable. The first was our trip to Antwerp to watch Christopher's basketball team compete in a tournament. Apparently, the Flemish are incredibly proud of their language, and refused to respond to me in either French or English and I felt completely foreign. It was nearly impossible to even order dinner at McDonald's--and they are so universal! The second was during a routine trip to the military base in Bitburg, Germany, when I was rear-ended by a Spanish truck driver and pushed into a German vehicle. It was very awkward not being able to communicate with either, especially when the truck driver tried to leave the scene!
Language ability is truly a comfort when you are overseas, and not knowing the Macedonian language makes me a bit less adventurous in exploring the city. What if I have an accident? What if I get lost? I would love to frequent the Green Market, but until I learn the numbers in Macedonian, I don't feel I can or I'll risk paying $20 for a kilo of piperki(peppers)! Although I have learned many of the fruits and veggies, I can't seem to master the numbers! I find myself responding to clerks in French and sometimes even thanking them in Arabic instead of Macedonian! This is going to be a tough transition for me, but I am determined to learn this language!
Why does hearing one's native language immediately catch our attention? It is amazing to me how quickly we notice the conversations of others when they are in English. Our neighbors to the rear of our property occasionally speak English, and we find ourselves extremely curious about them, sometimes even to the point of eavesdropping--well the kids do. During almost every trip to the grocery store, we run into other Americans, many of whom we don't actually know. During a recent trip to a local indoor playground, I was approached by a very nice woman who couldn't help but overhear my kids speaking to each other in English. We chatted for a couple hours and exchanged numbers. It seems our ears perk up at the familiar sounds of English and draw us to whoever is speaking it! We have met some very nice folks as a result. My cell phone contact list is longer than it has ever been.
I recall two incidences where I was unable to communicate in the local language, and I felt very anxious and uncomfortable. The first was our trip to Antwerp to watch Christopher's basketball team compete in a tournament. Apparently, the Flemish are incredibly proud of their language, and refused to respond to me in either French or English and I felt completely foreign. It was nearly impossible to even order dinner at McDonald's--and they are so universal! The second was during a routine trip to the military base in Bitburg, Germany, when I was rear-ended by a Spanish truck driver and pushed into a German vehicle. It was very awkward not being able to communicate with either, especially when the truck driver tried to leave the scene!
Language ability is truly a comfort when you are overseas, and not knowing the Macedonian language makes me a bit less adventurous in exploring the city. What if I have an accident? What if I get lost? I would love to frequent the Green Market, but until I learn the numbers in Macedonian, I don't feel I can or I'll risk paying $20 for a kilo of piperki(peppers)! Although I have learned many of the fruits and veggies, I can't seem to master the numbers! I find myself responding to clerks in French and sometimes even thanking them in Arabic instead of Macedonian! This is going to be a tough transition for me, but I am determined to learn this language!
Why does hearing one's native language immediately catch our attention? It is amazing to me how quickly we notice the conversations of others when they are in English. Our neighbors to the rear of our property occasionally speak English, and we find ourselves extremely curious about them, sometimes even to the point of eavesdropping--well the kids do. During almost every trip to the grocery store, we run into other Americans, many of whom we don't actually know. During a recent trip to a local indoor playground, I was approached by a very nice woman who couldn't help but overhear my kids speaking to each other in English. We chatted for a couple hours and exchanged numbers. It seems our ears perk up at the familiar sounds of English and draw us to whoever is speaking it! We have met some very nice folks as a result. My cell phone contact list is longer than it has ever been.
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
The Arrival/First Impressions of Our New Home
We arrived at the Alexander The Great Airport and took our place in the long Customs line, when we were encouraged to procede to a newly opened line, which of course, became the slowest one! Finally, we made it through and were greeted by the CLO and some other Embassy folks, who came to take us to our new home. Anastasia needed to use the bathroom, and that was a definite reminder that we were in for a new adventure. The facility was very basic, with pull cord toilet flusher, no tissue or paper towels, and the room reeked of cigarette smoke. It could have been cleaner, but it was usable. We found our way back to the rest of the family at the luggage retrieval area. The experience was dizzying--but I couldn't believe how smoothly everything went. Kudos to GSO crew for helping with all our luggage, loading it, and moving us out of the airport so quickly. Particularly for getting Melodie released from the Cargo Customs so fast! Yotee was actually unloaded and ready before our luggage showed up. I received instructions to keep Melodie quarantined in her cage, and to save her droppings until the vet came to do a thorough inspection. Two large vans sped us through the countryside and into Skopje to our new home.
The drive was very interesting. I tried very hard to soak in the view and get a sense of what our life would be like for the next two years. At first I was surprised to see a lot of arid land, almost reminiscent of Qatar, but without "desert". Then, however, the beautiful greenery that I had expected appeared. Macedonia is a very lush, mountainous country and I was pleased to see lots of park like settings, even if most were unmaintained and overgrown. I couldn't help but notice an unusual number of car wash stands. I was very puzzled by this, but I suppose car washes are a terrific way to earn a living, especially in a place where many people take great pride in their cars, regardless of their age or condition. What stuck out most for my husband was the amount of graffiti, particularly the amount of graffiti written in English, that sullies so much of the city.
Skopje has so much potential. It has a very charming quality that could rival most Western European cities. Corner fruit stands compete with supermarkets; horse driven carts share the road with old rusty Yugos and flashy new BMWs; fisherman angle for the day's catch in a beautiful, yet polluted river; pleasant open air cafes border large tree-lined overgrown park areas. With a bit of effort in maintaining litter, lawn care, and covering up the unfortunate graffiti, this place could be so much more beautiful. Of course, all that would require more money and manpower than is probably available, so I imagine it will stay this way for a while. As it is, it is still a very interesting and fascinating place to explore, and I am so happy to be here.
We entered our neighborhood, a quiet peaceful street, tucked away and surrounded by small homes and large apartment buildings, just blocks from the Vardar river. We had received a few photos of the home before arriving, but they clearly didn't do it justice! We were overwhelmed by the character and beauty of this house and feel very fortunate to live here. The kids spent two days deciding who would get which room, since they were too exhausted to argue about it the first day! The yard is simply beautiful--well landscaped and very large with a fence all around to keep Yotee in. We knew immediately that we were all going to be very happy and comfortable living here in Macedonia.
Cheers!
The drive was very interesting. I tried very hard to soak in the view and get a sense of what our life would be like for the next two years. At first I was surprised to see a lot of arid land, almost reminiscent of Qatar, but without "desert". Then, however, the beautiful greenery that I had expected appeared. Macedonia is a very lush, mountainous country and I was pleased to see lots of park like settings, even if most were unmaintained and overgrown. I couldn't help but notice an unusual number of car wash stands. I was very puzzled by this, but I suppose car washes are a terrific way to earn a living, especially in a place where many people take great pride in their cars, regardless of their age or condition. What stuck out most for my husband was the amount of graffiti, particularly the amount of graffiti written in English, that sullies so much of the city.
Skopje has so much potential. It has a very charming quality that could rival most Western European cities. Corner fruit stands compete with supermarkets; horse driven carts share the road with old rusty Yugos and flashy new BMWs; fisherman angle for the day's catch in a beautiful, yet polluted river; pleasant open air cafes border large tree-lined overgrown park areas. With a bit of effort in maintaining litter, lawn care, and covering up the unfortunate graffiti, this place could be so much more beautiful. Of course, all that would require more money and manpower than is probably available, so I imagine it will stay this way for a while. As it is, it is still a very interesting and fascinating place to explore, and I am so happy to be here.
We entered our neighborhood, a quiet peaceful street, tucked away and surrounded by small homes and large apartment buildings, just blocks from the Vardar river. We had received a few photos of the home before arriving, but they clearly didn't do it justice! We were overwhelmed by the character and beauty of this house and feel very fortunate to live here. The kids spent two days deciding who would get which room, since they were too exhausted to argue about it the first day! The yard is simply beautiful--well landscaped and very large with a fence all around to keep Yotee in. We knew immediately that we were all going to be very happy and comfortable living here in Macedonia.
Cheers!
Traveling To Our New Home
We had a surprisingly good flight, after nearly missing the boarding. Long story short--Chris had to return the two rental cars while I checked us in to our flight at the Austrian desk, and it took much longer than we expected. Thank goodness for some kind folks at the airport who whisked us through security and helped us make the plane on time. Collier was amazingly well-behaved on the nearly 9 hour flight to Austria, and we were pleasantly surprised to find that Melodie, our beloved rabbit, was actually in the cabin with us instead of in the cargo hold. As usual, I didn't sleep at all and I was feeling seriously ill.
I was so stressed about what when happen when we arrived in Skopje, particularly with the rabbit. We were warned the day before we left that there may be a need to quarantine her upon arrival, and there were no facilities available at the airport to do so. I was furious, plus I was scared of the long journey in cargo for her as well. Fortunately, she was in the cabin for the first leg, and we turned her over to the handlers in Vienna so she could fly with Yotee in the baggage hold for a cargo arrival in Skopje. Apart from having to collect Yotee and walk around the airport with her for a few hours, the layover was manageable. Having the dog meant no early access to the gate area, however, so there were no comfortable places to spend the nearly 5 hours!
The flight to Skopje was short and relatively stress free, but I was still very nauseous and nervous. The kids were fantastic. I am always surprised at how well they travel. They really behaved themselves, and we received a few compliments from some fellow FSers(who were on the flights unbeknownst to us) about their behaviour. I was really proud of them all! But I am glad we don't have to fly again for at least a year!
I was so stressed about what when happen when we arrived in Skopje, particularly with the rabbit. We were warned the day before we left that there may be a need to quarantine her upon arrival, and there were no facilities available at the airport to do so. I was furious, plus I was scared of the long journey in cargo for her as well. Fortunately, she was in the cabin for the first leg, and we turned her over to the handlers in Vienna so she could fly with Yotee in the baggage hold for a cargo arrival in Skopje. Apart from having to collect Yotee and walk around the airport with her for a few hours, the layover was manageable. Having the dog meant no early access to the gate area, however, so there were no comfortable places to spend the nearly 5 hours!
The flight to Skopje was short and relatively stress free, but I was still very nauseous and nervous. The kids were fantastic. I am always surprised at how well they travel. They really behaved themselves, and we received a few compliments from some fellow FSers(who were on the flights unbeknownst to us) about their behaviour. I was really proud of them all! But I am glad we don't have to fly again for at least a year!
Hello from Skopje!
Hi Everyone! This blog was created as an attempt to keep in touch with our friends and family. As part of my husband's career, travel has been a necessary blessing and we have had the good fortune to meet many wonderful people worldwide. I hope this blog will allow us to share our Macedonian experiences with them all, and to open their eyes to this wonderful and fascinating culture. I will also use this space to keep you all posted on the latest family updates and hopefully share photos of the kids and this interesting country---once I learn how to use the evil digital camera! I hope you find the info I post enjoyable and informative and that you visit often!
Cheers!
Cheers!
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